Road Trip 4: Picos de Europa I (Cabrales and Bulnes)
71 km / 1 h 15 mins
(to the Cares Gorge)
Itinerary:
- El gran sueño - Arenas de Cabrales / Les Arenes: 65 km / 66 mins
- Arenas de Cabrales / Les Arenes - Poncebos: 6 km / 10 mins
- Poncebos - Cangas de Onís: 36 km / 42 mins
- Cangas de Onís - El gran sueño: 35 km / 35 mins

This article highlights one of our two remarkable road trips that delve into the captivating Asturian side of the Picos de Europa. Known as the first national park established in Spain back in 1918, the Picos de Europa stands as the largest limestone formation found in Atlantic Europe. Its awe-inspiring landscape boasts an abundance of towering peaks, some surpassing the remarkable height of 2000 meters. Among these majestic summits is the iconic Naranjo de Bulnes, proudly standing at an impressive 2519 meters. However, the appeal of the Picos de Europa extends far beyond its towering peaks. The region also features an array of enchanting lakes, rivers, caves, and gorges, each contributing to the area's undeniable allure. As you explore this natural wonder, it is impossible to overlook the diverse and vibrant flora and fauna that call this place home.
In the heart of the Picos de Europa, you'll discover the birthplace of two of Asturias' four protected designation of origin (DOP) cheeses: Cabrales and Gamonéu.
But that's not all – the Picos de Europa region offers a plethora of thrilling outdoor activities. From canoeing down rushing rivers to white-water rafting, canyoning adventures to rock climbing, trail running to orienteering races, snowshoeing excursions to backcountry skiing – there's an abundance of options for adrenaline enthusiasts. Whether you're a cheese aficionado or an adventure seeker, the Picos de Europa has something extraordinary to offer. Come and explore the beauty and excitement of this captivating region in Northern Spain!
- El gran sueño - Arenas de Cabrales / Les Arenes: 65 km / 66 mins
Arenas de Cabrales gives its name to the most famous blue cheese in Spain. Cheese lovers can visit the Cueva del Queso de Cabrales and its exhibition. There are some cheesemongers' that offer guided visits, like Vega de Ario y Demués in Onís; and Maín, El Cabriteru and Vega de Tordín, all three in Cabrales.
- Arenas de Cabrales / Les Arenes - Poncebos: 6 km / 10 mins
In Poncebos you can park the car and take the funicular to Bulnes. There is a small parking lot next to the funicular. If it is full you will have to leave the car along the road. To go up to Bulnes another option is to make the 3.2 km Ruta de la Canal del Texu. It takes approximately 2h 30 mins. From Bulnes itself there are several routes you can take.
Another option from Poncebos is the famous Ruta del Cares (PR AS-227). The total round trip to Caín (already in the province of Leon) and back is 24 km and 7-8h. In Caín there are several bars and restaurants.
- Poncebos - Cangas de Onís: 36 km / 42 mins
As we make our return journey, a delightful detour awaits in the charming town of Cangas de Onís. Here, we'll immerse ourselves in history and beauty by visiting the awe-inspiring Iglesia de la Santa Cruz (Church of the Holy Cross) and crossing the iconic Puente Romano (Roman Bridge) that gracefully spans the Sella River. This picturesque scene is a photographer's dream and one of Asturias' most treasured gems.
If our adventure coincides with a Sunday, we're in for a treat as we'll experience one of the region's oldest markets. As we explore, let's not overlook the enchanting Plaza del Mercado (Market Square), the quaint allure of calle San Pelayo (Saint Pelayo Street), and the historic district, where the Iglesia de la Asunción (Church of the Assumption) and the legendary statue of Pelayo await our discovery.
Our journey shouldn't miss a visit to the stately Casa Riera, a magnificent testament to Indian architecture. Situated gracefully opposite the Roman Bridge, it now serves as a welcoming tourist hub. For your convenience, especially on bustling Sundays, we recommend parking at the nearby Bus Station lot.
Cangas de Onís promises a rich tapestry of history, culture, and natural beauty, making it a highlight of your Asturian adventure.
Cangas de Onís - El gran sueño: 35 km / 35 mins
Extra optional visits:
- Sotres (20 mins / 11 kms from Poncebos on the CA-1 road): numerous mountain tours depart from here
Recommended restaurants:
- El Cares, Arenas de Cabrales
- El Raitán Café-Bar, Arenas de Cabrales
- La Taberna del Pindal, Arenas de Cabrales
- Bar La Fuentina, Camarmeña, near Poncebos
- El Redondín (Casa Rafa), Bulnes
- Bar Bulnes, Bulnes
- La Sifonería, Cangas de Onís
- El Molín de la Pedrera, Cangas de Onís